For over two decades, our family has been dedicated to the art of bespoke tailoring. From our home in Phuket to trunk shows across Europe, we believe a perfectly tailored suit is more than just clothing. Rather a statement of confidence, a mark of quality, and a reflection of you.
But the foundation of any great suit, regardless of its price tag, is the fit. In this guide, we’ll share our expertise on how should a suit jacket fit to ensure you always look polished and feel your best.
How Should a Suit Jacket Fit? The Key Elements
A well-fitted suit jacket is the cornerstone of a sharp, professional appearance. Here are the key elements to pay attention to when considering how should a suit jacket fit:
Shoulders
The shoulders are the most critical part of a suit jacket’s fit, as they are the most difficult to alter. The jacket’s shoulder should lie flat and end where your natural shoulder does.
The sleeve seam should align with the end of your shoulder bone. If you see a “dimple” or a wrinkle at the top of the arm, the jacket is too wide. Conversely, if the fabric is pulling and restricting your movement, it’s too tight.
Collar and Back
The collar of your jacket should rest smoothly against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against the back of your neck. There should be no significant gaps or bunching. A “collar gap,” where the jacket pulls away from your neck, is a common sign of a poor fit. The back of the jacket should drape cleanly across your back, tapering to your body’s shape without pulling at the seams.
Waist
A well-fitted suit jacket should taper slightly at the waist to create a defined silhouette, avoiding a “boxy” look. When fastening the top button, you should be able to comfortably slide your hand between the jacket and your shirt. If you can fit a fist, it’s too loose. If you see an “X” shape forming around the button, so jacket piece of the suit should fit not too tight.
Length
Ideal jacket length will vary slightly with modern styles. But, there is a timeless rule is that the jacket should be long enough to cover your seat. Another way to check is to let your arms hang naturally at your sides; the jacket should end around the middle of your hand. A jacket that is too short can make your torso look small, while one that is too long can overwhelm your frame.
How Should a Suit Jacket Fit: Sleeves and Cuffs
The relationship between your suit jacket sleeves and shirt cuffs is a subtle but important detail. Your shirt sleeves should be long enough to reach the base of your thumb. The suit jacket sleeve length should end just above your wrist bone to allow a quarter to a half-inch of your shirt cuff to be visible. This creates a clean, polished look.
Different Types of Lapels
Lapels play a significant role in the formality and style of a suit jacket.
- Notch Lapel: The most common and versatile style, suitable for everything from business meetings to social events.
- Peak Lapel: More formal and fashion-forward, with the lapel edges pointing upwards.
- Shawl Lapel: The most formal style, characterized by a smooth, rounded edge. Typically reserved for tuxedos and dinner jackets.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Fitting a Suit Jacket
- Ignoring Fit: This is the biggest mistake you can make. A well-tailored, inexpensive suit will always look better than an ill-fitting expensive one.
- Incorrect Sleeve and Trouser Length: Pay attention to the details. Ensure the right amount of shirt cuff is showing and that your trousers have a slight break over your shoes.
- Mismatched Accessories: Your belt and shoes should be in the same color family. Your tie and pocket square should complement, not clash with, your suit.
The Role of Tailoring in Achieving the Perfect Suit Jacket Fit
Even an off-the-rack suit can be transformed with the help of a skilled tailor. A tailor can make adjustments to the waist, sleeves, and trousers to ensure a perfect fit.
However, there are limitations. Altering the shoulders of a jacket is a complex and costly process that is often not worth it. You should always, best to start with a jacket that fits well in the shoulders and then have the other areas tailored as needed.
A well-fitted suit is an investment in your personal style and confidence. By understanding how should a suit jacket fit, you can ensure that you always make a great impression, no matter the occasion.
